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General Information
Bali has approximately 3,500,000 inhabitants of which probably 80%
are Hindu Balinese. The remaining having come from neighboring islands
of Java, Lombok, Madura in search of employment.
Bali lies just 8.67° (965 km) south of the equator. As such
the weather is tropical - consistently hot and sunny. Days are almost
universally 12 hours long with sunrise is approximately 6:10 a.m.;
sunset at 6:30 p.m. depending on the time of year. The daytime temperature
averages between 27° C to 32° C (80° F to 90° F)
in the southern lowlands (the main tourist venues). Humidity is
quite high - a sticky 75% so often times it feels much hotter. Average
temperature in the mountains is between 20° C to 25° C (70°
F to 80° F). At night the mountains can get downright chilly
- so bring a sweater if you plan to overnight there.
Balis tropical monsoon climate has two distinct seasons; dry
(May to September) and wet (October to April). Monsoon refers to
the wind, not the rain. However even in the wet monsoon theres
a better than even chance that it will be sunny for a good part
of the day. Weather wise May, June and July are generally considered
the best.
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A
Short History
Bali was first settled by Chinese immigrants sometime around 2500
BC and after working on it for 2,000 years the complex irrigation
system that is still the focal point of Balinese agriculture and
way of life today was established. Things remained pretty much unchanged
until the 11th century. Around 1010 AD a Balinese Prince named Airlangha
took over East Java intending to unite it with Bali under his rule.
Successful, he subsequently appointed his brother, Anak Wungsu,
to rule Bali. As such there was a great deal of commerce between
Bali and Java bringing with it an exchange of politics and arts.
It was at this time the Bali adopted the Javanese language, Kawi
that is still used today.
Airlangha's death brought on several wars waged by Javanese Kings
to continue the Javanese control of Bali. Finally in 1343 Bali succumbed
to Javanese control when it was defeated by a General by the name
of Gajah Mada from the Majapahit Empire, the last Hindu Javanese
empire.
When Islam began spreading south from Sumatra into Java in the 16th
century, the Majapahit empire collapsed and a large number of aristocrats,
priests, and artists fled to Bali. From then until the Dutch arrived
in 1597 little changed except the culture continued to be refined
- which is where we pick up the story.
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The
People of Bali
The Balinese were not able to develop and sustain their extremely
complex agricultural economy for centuries on end without a very
organized community structure. The basis of this community structure
is the Subak and the Banjar. Everyone who owns a rice paddy must
join the Subak in their village. The Subak controls who will plant
rice and when (plantings are staggered so that pestilence is minimized).
As well and more importantly the Subak ensures that all farmers
receive their fair share of irrigation water since traditionally
the head the Subak was the farmer whose field was at the bottom
of the hill and water first had to pass through everybody else's
field before it was allowed to irrigate his.
The other important community structure, the Banjar, organizes all
other aspects of Balinese life (i.e. marriages, cremations, community
service, festivals and the like). When a man marries he is expected
to join the village Banjar and must participate in community affairs.
Meetings are held at a large open air building called the Bale Banjar.
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Religion
Although the Balinese are Hindu and worship the Hindu trinity Brahma,
Shiva and Vishnu, the Balinese religion is very different from the
Indian variety. The Balinese do have a caste system but there are
no untouchables. The caste system is most evident in the language
which has three levels: a low level for commoners, a mid level to
address strangers and a high level only used when addressing aristocracy.
The Balinese are an unusual island people in that they have never
been sea faring people. They believe that good spirits dwell in
the mountains and that the seas are home to demons. Most villages
have at least three main temples: one of which is the Pura Puseh
or temple of origin, is dedicated to the village founders
and which faces to Mt Agung - home to Pura Besakih the mother temple
on Bali. Together with the other two village temples each house
may several temples and as well as rice fields, markets etc. etc.
etc. Now you can see why Bali is often referred to as the Island
of the Gods.
The Balinese are extremely devout and no day goes by without making
offerings to the gods. These daily offerings - called Banten are
a major part of Balinese life. You will see these offerings nearly
everywhere in Bali. Made of flowers, cigarettes, cookies, rice and
even sometimes money (the actual items used are not as important
as the process of making and offering it to the spirits) these offerings
are given to the good spirits in hopes of continued prosperity as
well as to the evil spirits as an appeasement.
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Simple
Etiquette
The Balinese are inclusive by nature and take great pride in their
heritage and therefore do not mind visitors observing ceremonies
and traditional dances, just as long as you follow a few simple,
basic points of etiquette. (After all, how would you like a group
of foreign speaking tourists invading your wedding or funeral of
a close relative to snap a few photos?). First, dress appropriately
- smart casual is appropriate - swim wear is not appropriate. Two,
be quiet and respectful. Cameras and camcorders are ok - but do
be unobtrusive.
Also do not step in front of anyone to snap a photo and do not sit
higher than the local priest presiding over the ceremony. As well,
Do Not touch or pat anyone (including children) on the head.
When visiting temples be aware that you should wear long pants or
a sarong with a selendang tied around the waist (men and women).
Whilst you can take your own every major temple has selendangs to
borrow for a small donation. It is extremely bad form (in fact its
taboo) for women who are menstruating to enter a temple.
Lastly a word about being stuck in traffic. If you do find yourself
stuck in traffic for no apparent reason you may have come up on
a Balinese procession on the way to temple. Be patient. No amount
of honking the car's horn is going to speed things up and it's rude
to try and pass.
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